My updates @ College and whatever in-between.

Posts tagged “Engine

Replacing Toyota 2ZZ-GE VVTL-I camshaft lift bolts at 105k miles…

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Firstly I’d like to thank the following two guide links, which give you all the information you need for this task:

Lift Bolt Replacement BY TeamCelica.com Tronix, Uansari and Lamar Vannoy

&

Targa90’s 7th Generation Celica Lift Bolt Replacement Tutorial

Despite the simplicity of this task I was dreading it a little, it was a must do job but I had no idea if these bolts had been replaced on my car or not.

Judging from my engine and how it looked I assumed not, everything is rather dusty in my engine bay but very undisturbed. Going by all the previous MOT and service history it’s been a very reliable motor and well looked after so I wasn’t expecting problems…

Two things I would advise you get for this task is a 5-25NM torque wrench and a cover sealant, since there are two points on the cover that need cleaning off and new sealant applied to on refitting the cam cover (see Targa90’s link for this).

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The cover needed some gentle persuasion to come off as you can imagine, you will notice it almost refuses to come off over in the right rear corner reason being that there is a vertical oil flow tube and it seals pretty tight. It will seem awkward when refitting the cover as well but just keep an eye on the tube and make sure to seat the cover back on as evenly as possible, the bolts will pull the cover back down snug.

When you get the cover off it might be ideal to wrap up the top of the exposed engine, especially if it’s windy and your engine is flailing bits of dust and dirt. Ideally you should give the coil pack recess and all the top section a hoover off first as the metal can be very fatigued by the elements.

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So as you can see I was lucky this time ! These bolts I’ve removed are revised ones but not the final versions, I believe with my car being built in the latter of 2002 it come with these from the factory. As you can see the wear is obvious, very more so on the intake bolt shown closest.

All in this job cost me £30.00 to do, the torque wrench, the two bolts and the sealant. I’m very pleased the bolts were not snapped or that they did snap during removal, as that makes things a lot more stressful !

Have a good day everyone.


Z16Xe Zafira A / Astra G Catalytic Converter Replacement

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In principal this is quite a simple job and you don’t really need to be mechanically minded to do this at all, what makes it a pain is rusty nuts ! Be prepared for those rusty nuts from hell ! In this post I will just outline some tips when it comes to replacing the cat for this specific vehicle as it might come in useful for others out there.

So it’s been fifteen years and 65k miles for my Dad’s Zafira, I guess it’s going through the “bits are wearing out” kinda stage. The vehicle has been flawless but in the last year the following have happened:

Exhaust muffler blow – Replaced

Exhaust mid silencer blow – Replaced

Downpipe flex collapse – Replaced

Primary and Secondary o2 sensor failure – Replaced (use genuine NTK/GM/Bosch/Denso or you might get EML issues!)

And now the latest addition: “P0420 – Catalyst System Low Efficiency” ! Eeekk :-/

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So this is the best answer I found to removing all the manifold nuts. This is a tool known as a “nut/bolt extractor” and is essentially a sharp spiral teething socket that grips into rusted nuts or bolts and gets them loose ! The ones I went for are the “Irwin Bolt Grip Expansion Set” which has the correct 10mm fitment for the Zafra/Astra G.  I would not of got the job done without these they are perfect for this job. It is possible to do the nuts off with a chisel and a hammer but the “Irwin’s” save loads of time and risk of damaging the stud threads.

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Would you like to see what happened to the old catalytic converter ? Well here you are, no wonder it wasn’t do it’s job most of the monolith element was gone ! As you can see it is a really chalky colour which is a sign of fatigue and heat damage, 17 years though cannot complain !

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There is not much else to mention apart from some tips regarding the new cat. I purchased an “eBay approved cat” costing £100 but there are some differences to note against the OEM GM cat !

Firstly as you can see in the photograph the bottom down pipe connection has bolt holes instead of integrated studs. This is fine apart from the Screws/Nuts supplied are absolute rubbish ! I don’t know what they are but the nuts have weird dipped threads so when you are putting the nuts on they suddenly go extremely tight, and it’s impossible to do laying under the car using a socket in one hand and a spanner in the other !

My advice is ditch the provided Screws/Nuts and pick up the Halfords M8 assortment pack for £3.48 they are perfect for the job and save a lot of hassle !

Also another mention which is unavoidable really but still a bummer and that’s the manifold casting shape. Basically the new one has slightly shallower header branches, if you look carefully on the photo above you will see the far right branch is a fatter shape and this makes the far right bottom nut really damn hard to fit ! The only way I could get it done was to remove the oil filter, and even after that it took about half an hour to fit the damn nut with an open end spanner !

So just to conclude this task:

  1. Get nut/bolt extractors to make removal much easier
  2. If you can pickup a new or very good genuine OEM GM cat it will be easier to fit !

Hope this help anyone out there, leave a comment if you have any questions.

Kenny 🙂